Wednesday, 3 May 2017

Chaing Mai: oh my!

I have been in Chaing Mai for a total of 5 weeks and its safe to say I am in love with this place. It is the largest city in Northern Thailand, although it doesn't have the feel of a busy capital. Within its centre is the old city with was once surrounded by a stone wall on all four sides. The majority of the walls have long since disappeared leaving only reminants at each corner and the large stone gates. Surrounding the old city is a moat with fountains in the centre spraying water up in high foaming peaks. Pretty pink flowers on trees create a beautiful back drop to the wooden bridges and, as the sun rises, their image is reflected off the water.


There are several small Soi’s (small streets) running off the main roads in the city and these are an explorer’s paradise. Down each of these you are bound to find something of interest and they offer a peaceful alternative to the busier roads. I am staying in the North East corner of the old town and the Soi’s in this area are packed with beautiful creative graffiti art murals, laid back vegetarian restaurants, traditional produce markets and other wonderful sights. I love nothing more than to amble around the old city soaking in the atmosphere.




I have been getting up very early some mornings to join the locals in Quigong in the park. The struggle I feel to get up at 5:30am feels worth it when I walk through the gates and see the locals happily chatting and exercising with each other. It is such a communal atmosphere and very addictive. The sun has not yet risen at that hour and the birds are excitedly chirping their dawn chorus. The Quigong is a free class and the locals have been very welcoming (taking the time to demonstrate the breathing which is at the crux of the exercise). I adore the sequence of movements which you undertake to the ‘breath in’ and ‘breath out’ rhythm. I love how the flow of your limbs and the deliberate stances feels like you are dancing through air


The 45min walk back to my hotel after Quigong is one of my favourite times of day. There is a serene quietness that envelopes the city and the rising sun emits a gorgeous encompassing glow. Around this time the monks leave the Wat’s (temples) and walk bare feet through the city to collect psalms. Their rich orange robes stand in stark contrast to the white of the temple walls and they move together with such gentle grace. Stray dogs start to stir from their slumber as they lazily sniff in the direction of the early morning food stalls. The air is noticeably cooler and the soft breeze causes the multitude of gorgeous hanging lanterns to lightly sway.


I love the abundance of colours in Thailand. The pinks, the oranges, the reds, the greens. Everything seems brighter here. Art is part of the culture and this is reflected in the dazzling decoration of the many Wat’s. These are wonderful places to visit not just for a glimpse of Buddhist culture but for the calm they evoke.


The locals are also wonderful. They grin when I verbally stumble clumsily over phrases and seem genuinely pleased when a tourist attempts to talk their language. I often say hello (Sawadee Ka) and good morning (Sawadee tdawn chao) to an elderly Tuk Tuk driver who seems to spend all day parked in the Soi where my hotel is located. When he sees me he breaks in to a big toothless smile and we laugh together (about what I'm not sure, but that hardly seems to matter!!). There is a real sense of community here and this is most apparent around the food stalls and local markets. Women of all ages sit and gossip together, laughing joyfully while they cradle their infants and attend to their produce.

It is so easy to travel around here. Of course there is the ever present Tuk Tuk drivers which although is a fun and quick method of travel it is the more expensive option. There are also plenty of songtaew red taxis and you can simply hail these from the side of the road and hop on to reach anywhere in the city. Most tourists choose to hire a moped or a push bike but I don't trust myself on either in this level of traffic (I tend to day dream too much and you need full concentration on Thai roads!). I did take a trip in a bike carriage which was a nail biting 15mins as the driver kept turning round to chat to me causing the bike to sway erratically into the traffic. The carriage had bits of electric tape holding it together and emitted ominous snapping noises as we rode along! He was a lovely old man though and was obviously very proud of his vehicle.


Five weeks sounds a long time to be in once place and I have been studying massage for the majority of this time. I now have certificates in Thai foot massage, Aroma oil massage and hot stone massage (obtained from ITM school and Spa Mantra). I had such a great time learning these and met some wonderful people. The Thai massage method is so gentle and flowing and it was a real pleasure to be taught in the traditional ways.



The night markets are amazing in Chaing Mai and the Sunday walking market is especially good. There is so much to see and buy as well as tasty street food to sample. They can get very busy and when its hot (as it has been while I have been here), it can become a little overwhelming. I like to find a quiet spot on a curb and sit with a refreshing fresh coconut soaking up the atmosphere when it all gets too much!

This little glimpse into Chaing Mai could never do it Justice and I highly recommend a visit. I'm pretty sure you will fall in love with it too.





 



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